We put the panels on the ground. Your roof stays exactly the way it is.
No salesman. No home visit to get a number.
Nobody drills your roof. No new holes, no leaks, no argument with your roofer about whose fault it is.
When the roof needs replacing in twelve years, the panels are not in the way. Ground mount vs rooftop
A roof points where the builder pointed it. A ground mount points south at the angle we choose.
On our own comparison, that is up to 25% more kWh out of the same panels. See the comparison
Air moves under a ground mount. They typically run 10 to 15 degrees cooler than the same panels on shingles. Hot panels make less power, and Texas is hot.
A roof has an edge. Land does not. Add a shop, a well pump, a barn, a second EV, and the array grows to match. Rural and acreage systems
A ground mount takes up yard. Four hundred to six hundred square feet for a normal house, more if you want to cover everything.
It costs more up front than the same panels on the roof.
If your roof is ten years old, faces south and has no shade, put them on the roof and save the money. We will tell you that on the phone.
What you do get is a say in where it goes. Back corner of the lot, behind the barn, out of sight of the house, or right where you can keep an eye on it.
A roof gives you no say at all — the panels go where the roof faces, and you look at them from the street for the next twenty-five years.
The national average for a home ground mount is about $2.96 per watt, against about $2.60 per watt for home solar generally.
That gap is not a markup. It is a steel frame that has to stand up on its own, a foundation in the ground, and a trench from the array to your panel.
A roof install skips all three because the roof is already there.
Two things that are true about that number and rarely said out loud.
It is a national marketplace average, not a code or a standard — the federal lab that benchmarks solar costs does not publish a residential ground-mount figure at all.
And it does not know your dirt. Blackland clay moves. Rock costs money to trench through. A long run from the array to the meter costs more than a short one.
So we do not quote a price per watt and hope. You get a number for your property, with the trench and the ground it actually sits on.
The array has to reach your electrical panel. That is a trench, and it is priced by the foot.
An array eighty feet from the house costs noticeably less to connect than the same array three hundred feet out by the barn.
Rock costs more than clay. Clay that swells costs more than sand.
None of that shows up in a price-per-watt on somebody's website. It shows up on your invoice.
So we measure the run before we quote it, and where you want the panels is a conversation about cost, not just about the view.
A roof lasts about as long as the panels on it. When it needs replacing, the panels come off first and go back on after.
EnergySage puts that at $1,500 to $6,000, and over $7,000 on a bigger system — before the roof itself.
Then every mounting point gets drilled and flashed into your brand new roof.
Maintenance is the same story. Anything on a roof needs fall protection and two people.
A bad install is harder to spot up there and worse when it finally shows, because what fails is the seal between the array and the only thing keeping rain out of your house.
A ground mount is walked, inspected and serviced standing on the ground.
What ground mount solar costs in Texas · Meter and array placement
If you are in an HOA, Texas law is on your side but only so far. The state stops an HOA banning solar outright.
It also lets an HOA prohibit a ground mount that sits anywhere other than a roof or a fenced yard.
Inside a fenced yard there is a second rule: the array cannot stand taller than the fence.
Read those together and the answer for most HOA lots is a fenced-yard array that sits below the fence line.
That is a design we build. Lower tilt, or two panels high instead of four, and it fits under the fence.
It costs a little production and it is not a dead end. Worth settling before anyone pours a foundation.
Most North Texas cities require a building permit and an electrical permit.
Most want engineer-sealed drawings for the frame and its footings, and a site plan showing the array against your property lines and setbacks.
Some want the trench inspected before it gets covered back up.
We pull the permits. You do not chase the city.
Oncor delivers the electricity. It does not sell it to you and does not buy it back.
Your retail provider sets the buyback, and you can change providers when the contract is up.
Rates, caps and rollover rules vary a lot between them, and some plans will not take a system as large as the one your land can hold.
On a co-op — CoServ, Tri-County, Wise, United — the co-op's tariff sets the rate and you take what it sets. Worth knowing which one you are on before you size anything.
On unincorporated county land the rules are usually lighter than in town.
Parker County does not issue building permits at all, and Tarrant County does not issue them for houses.
That is not the whole story — septic, floodplain and utility interconnection still apply — but it often means a shorter path than a city job.
Ground mount only, since 2018. Not a roof company that will also do a ground mount if you insist.
We do not install on roofs. We do not do leases or power purchase agreements. You own the system.
No salesman. No home visit to get a number.
